Makdous لمكدوسا – Stuffed & Preserved Eggplant 1
As I have stated before in this blog, I’m not a fan of eggplant. I don’t care for the taste, texture, and several bad experiences as a child have all left me wary of this particular nightshade. However, over the years I have come to appreciate eggplant in two – YES! – two dishes; Baba Ghannouj and Makdous.
Makdous is ubiquitous all over the Middle East. It can be eaten for breakfast (the most common way) or as a mezze.
I’ve been searching for an actual origin story for this dish, but haven’t been able to find one. No doubt it came, like most preserved foods, out of sheer necessity to get people through until the next harvest.
There is an odd alchemy that happens with Makdous during the preservation process. While it is generally known that you don’t store raw garlic in olive oil, especially at room temperature, it seems to work just fine in this recipe. It could be the mixture of the nuts, salt, and pepper along with the alkaline nature of the eggplant. You can store Makdous in the refrigerator or at room temperature in the pantry (as I’ve always seen my dad do).
There are several ways Makdous can be prepared. One constant is the eggplant should be blanched and drained before stuffing. Some drain the eggplant by stuffing it first, placing it in the jar, then turning the jar over to let the liquid drain out; others will cut a slit in the eggplant, lay it slit side down, then let it drain overnight. I use the latter method. (There is only one time I’ve seen a recipe that simply salted the eggplant and let it drain without cooking.) Always use small or baby eggplant. The baby eggplant will be more tender, sweeter, and less apt to be bitter. You’ll be able to find baby eggplant in abundance in any grocery that caters to the Middle Eastern community or, if you’re lucky, at the local farmers market or farm stand during the growing season. (In central Texas, we have eggplant from roughly June through the first frost in late October/early November.) There are also, of course, ingredient variations. Some will use pepper paste (like harissa), a combination of sweet & hot peppers, cayenne, parsley, lemon, chili powder, Feta cheese (although they don’t last as long), cilantro (coriander), pecans, and pomegranate seeds. The constants are always eggplant, walnuts, and salt.
This recipe was written in consultation with and advice from my dad. He is a Makdous connoisseur and, along with my mom, has made Makdous in the past. I just hope he likes this batch once I get a jar to him.
The ingredients.
Japanese Eggplant.
“Dancer” eggplant. This is what I used in the recipe. I got the smallest ones I could find.
2 lbs. baby eggplant or small Japanese eggplant
3 1/2 c. walnuts, chopped
15 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp. red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tsp. Kosher or sea salt, or to taste
Olive Oil as needed
2 – 3 ea. quart-sized Mason ® jars with lids & rims, cleaned
Trim the tops of the eggplant, leaving the caps on. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the eggplants to the boiling water, turn off the heat, and let the eggplant sit in the water for 10 minutes. (I like to put a small plate on top of the eggplant to keep it submerged.)
Weighing down the eggplant.
After 10 minutes, drain the eggplant. Once it is cool enough to handle, cut a slit in one side (not all the way through and try to leave about 1″ at each end uncut). Lay the eggplant on a rack, cut side down, and let drain overnight.
The cut eggplant. Sadly, no. It doesn’t keep its color.
Draining the eggplant. Some people will weigh the eggplant down at this point to drain out as much liquid as possible. I generally don’t; it’s up to you.
The next day, mix together the walnuts, garlic, pepper flakes, and salt. Taste for seasoning and adjust as you like.
The stuffing. It’s almost like a nut pesto.
Fill each eggplant with some of the stuffing. You want to get as much as you can in the eggplant without splitting them. (You may have some stuffing left over; that’s OK. It actually goes great on pasta or spread on a good crusty piece of bread.)
The (over) stuffed eggplant.
Place as many of the stuffed eggplant as you can in a Mason Jar with minimal crushing. Slowly add the olive oil to cover the eggplant. Set the jars on a rimmed baking sheet lined with a thick layer of paper towels or a dish towel you don’t really care about. Place the lid (only!) on the top of the jar. Place the baking sheet with the jars in a cool, dark place and let sit for 1 week.
The Makdous ready for preserving. Note how it’s just the lid on the jar, not the rim. You want to allow the moisture to escape.
There will be some overflow from the jars. This is due to the moisture (mainly water) escaping and overflowing the jar. Simply check to be sure the oil is covering everything in the jar.
After 3 days. Notice how yellow the towels are. That’s the excess moisture and some olive oil escaping the jar. You may also see some bubbles. This is from the water and air escaping and it’s normal.
After 1 week, carefully clean off the rim of the jar, tighten the lid with the rim, and wash off any oil residue off the jar.
I believe this is after 10 days. (We went on vacation.) I cleaned off the rim of the jar, put on the lid rims, then washed the residue off the jars.
The Makdous is now ready to eat. You can store it in the refrigerator (just let it come to room temperature before eating) or in a cool, dark pantry for up to one year as long as the contents are always covered in olive oil and the lid & rim are sealed tightly.
I personally like Makdous on a good cracker.
Sahtein! صحتين!
