Ossobuco d’Agnello 0
This time of year provides the perfect excuse to break out some of the recipes that I would never make the rest of the year. Which, in central Texas, means that I have only about 3 months to indulge in some of my favorite comfort foods.
Ossobuco is one of them. With the rich lamb, sauce, and risotto, it’s a wonderful accompaniment to a cold night.
The name literally means “bone with a hole” (osso – bone; buco – hole). Ossobuco is a dish (legendarily) created in the Milano area in northern Italy in the 19th century. Some say it was created by local farmers as a way to cook tougher cuts of meat (i.e. shanks – the shin portion of the leg. The fore shank is the bottom part of the shin; the hind shnk the upper part of the shin.); others, it was created in an osteria.
The original recipe is made with veal shanks, cinnamon, and bay leaves with no tomato. The more modern and more popular version is made with tomatoes, vegetables, and red wine. And, while veal shank is still used widely, lamb shank is gaining in popularity.
As for myself, I prefer the lamb shanks. I find they have far more flavor. And, if you can get hind shanks, more meat for the money.
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A few notes:
1. In this example, I’m using fore shanks. The butcher I bought these from didn’t have hind shanks that day. But, they were large and worked well in this dish. Also, I bought these still in the cryovac packaging. The butcher had received them from the farm that morning and they hadn’t been fully trimmed yet. More than likely, the shanks you buy will be already trimmed and ready to go.
2. If you prefer not to use wine, then you can omit it all together. As substitutions for red wine you can use extra stock for deglazing (you can add 1 tablespoon red wine or balsamic vinegar per 1 cup of stock for tartness), or 100% cranberry or pomegranate juice; for white wine, you can use extra chicken or vegetable stock (you can add 1 tablespoon lemon juice or white wine vinegar to 1 cup of stock for tartness), verjus (a juice made from unripe green grapes), or unsweetened apple cider or juice.
3. The traditional accompaniment for this dish is risotto. However, of you prefer, you can also serve this with polenta, mashed potatoes, or pasta. If you do use pasta, use a shaped pasta (such as campenelle or rotini) or a wide pasta (such as paprdelle or bucatini).
4. Gremolata is served alongside the Ossobuco as a way to cut through the richness of the dish.
Lamb Ossobuco
4 large lamb shanks (preferably hind shanks)
Salt
Flour
3 tbsp. Olive Oil
1 lg. onion, minced
2 carrots, peeled, either diced or cut into thin rounds
2 stalks celery, diced
3 cl. garlic, minced
1/2 c. tomato paste
1 c. dry red wine
2 sprigs rosemary
4 sprigs thyme
1 ea. 2″ strip lemon zest
2 – 3 c. chicken or beef broth (or a combination of both), more if needed
Salt & Pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Lightly sprinkle salt on the lamb shanks. Then, lightly flour the them, shaking off any excess flour. Set aside.
2. In a large Dutch oven or a deep, stove-proof casserole dish, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the lamb shanks and sear until browned. Cook the them in batches if needed. Remove the shanks from the heat and set aside.
3. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the vegetables and garlic and saute until the vegetables are slightly softened, about 5 minutes.
Add in the tomato paste and cook another 3 – 4 minutes.
Add in the red wine to deglaze the pan and cook another 5 – 7 minutes to reduce the wine and soften the flavor.
Then, add the rosemary, thyme, lemon zest, and 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Simmer another 2 – 3 minutes.
4. Lay the reserved shanks on top of the vegetables and add just enough broth to come halfway up the shanks.
Cover the casserole or Dutch oven and place in the oven. Cook for 2 to 2-1/2 hours (flipping the meat halfway through) or until the meat is tender. Check for liquid content, adding more if needed.
5. After you take the baking dish out of the oven, remove the shanks and set aside.
If you like, set the baking dish on the stove over medium-high heat to reduce the sauce. Remove the rosemary and thyme stalks and discard.
6. Traditionally, the shank is served whole with the risotto and Gremolata. However, if you prefer (and I do if I use fore shanks), trim the meat off the bone and mix it back into the sauce; then serve with the Risotto and Gremolata.
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Risotto alla Milanese
6 c. stock – beef, chicken, lamb, or vegetable
1 tsp. saffron, crushed
4 tbsp butter
1 small onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 c. carnaroli or arborrio rice
1/2 c. dry white wine
3/4 c. fresh grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt & Pepper to taste
1. Bring 5 cups of the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and keep the stock warm. In a small saucepan heat the remaining 1 cup of stock with the saffron. Again, reduce the heat to low and keep warm.
2. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of butter and the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until softened, about 5 – 7 minutes.
Add in the rice and sauté, stirring constantly, another 5 minutes.
Add a pinch or two of salt, stir again, and add in the wine. Stir constantly until the wine has been absorbed by the rice.
3. Lower the heat under the rice to medium. Begin adding the 5 cups of stock, 1 cup at a time, stirring after each addition until the broth has been absorbed.
After you have added the 3rd cup of broth, add in the broth with the saffron. Continue stirring.
4. After you have added the 5th cup of stock, begin testing the rice to make sure it is al dente. You may not need all the broth. When the rice is al dente (or to your liking), add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the Parmigiano. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
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Gremolata
Zest of 2 lemons
1 bunch of Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, minced
Salt to taste
2 tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive oil
Mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl and serve along side the Ossobuco.
Buon Apetito!